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FRENCH GEOMETRIC SYSTEM 



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—BY— 



P. ' RONTEY, 



"No. 713 BROADWAY; 



Teaching and Cutting, No. 21 East 16th Street, 



New York. 




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FRENCH GEOMETRIC SYSTEM 



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BY 



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ISTo. 713 13 roadway, New York. 



SECOND EDITION. 









Having secured the exclusive right of ray system by Act of Congress, any infringement 
of the same will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law. 



X 









Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, 
By P. EONTEY, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 




PREFACE 



The dressmakers of the United States, within the past few years, 
have made a great progress in the reproduction of European fashions. 

In the principal cities of the Union they have distinguished them- 
selves by giving bon ton and elegance to ladies' costumes, but it is 
only after much trouble and difficulty that they have been enabled 
to give the tout ensemble to their garments, which in generality appear 
too restrained and too stiff, besides being uncomfortable to the wearer. 

To make a waist that will be comfortable, and at the same time 
easy and graceful, it must be cut by proportions, combined on the 
measurement taken from the person, and" then only can be obtained 
the ease and elegance so much admired in a perfect fitting garment. 

The system of drafting and cutting that I have invented expressly 
for ladies will at once give the so much desired fit, thereb^v giving 
entire satisfaction to the customer, and saving the dressmaker from 
all the many perplexities arising from difficult and oftentimes tedious 
alterations. 



PLATE 1. 




MANNER OF TAKING- THE MEASURE. 



1st, Is the Shoulder Measure, and being of great importance should be taken 
carefully, not too tight nor too loose. Place the end of the tape meas- 
ure on the neck -bone (see diagram), holding it with the left hand, and 
with the right bring it front over* the shoulder, thence under the arm. 
and back to the starting point on the neck-bone. 

2d, Breast Measure. Pass the tape measure under the arms and above the 
bust. This measure must be taken a little tight. 

3d, Waist Measure, around the smallest part of the waist, to be taken tight or 
loose, according to the wishes of the wearer. 

4th, Hip Measure, around the largest part of the hip. 

5th, Length, of back, from the neck-boue to the natural waist, and down to the 
full length of the garment. 

6th, Length of the Front. Place the tape measure on the neck-bone, and bring 
it front over the middle of the shoulder down to the waist. 

7th, Length of side body, from under the arm to the waist. 

8th, Sleeve Measure. The arm should be slightly raised and bent. Measure 
from the middle of the back across to the shoulder, marking ;it the same 
time for the width of the back, thence to the el how and down to the 
wrist. 




THE BASQUE. 

To commence drafting : Place the long arm of the square near the edge of 
the paper (side nearest to you), and draw line A ; reverse the square and place 
the short arm on line A, and draw line B ; dot on line B from line A 7 one half of 
the total breast measure ; dot I space of the breast measure scale, then 3£, and 
draw line C ; on line A from B, dot the length of the waist taken by measure- 
ment, and draw line E ; dot at the length given for basque 25 inches, and draw 
line F ; dot on line A from B, 8 spaces of the shoulder measure scale (great care 
must be taken not to use the breast measure scale in this part of the opera- 
tion, as it would insure utter failure). Draw a line, dot 4 spaces, and draw line D 



across to line C ; dot 9 spaces from line D for line E. (Note, this measure will 
agree with line E already obtained by the length of waist, only in the case of a 
well-balanced person. For a stout lady 9 spaces would be too long, and for a 
slender one, too short. It is only used when no length of waist has been 
obtained.) The shoulder scale may now be laid aside, as you have no further use 
for it. 

Take up the breast measure scale aud dot on line B 2 spaces for the top of 
back ; on the short line, between B and D, dot 6 } spaces for the width of the 
back ; draw a short line, aud on it dot 2£ spaces, place the square on the dot 
just made and on the dot on line B (top of the back) and draw the shoulder dot 
on liue D 3£ spaces, then 3, £, 2£, and 2£. A dot or mark must be made at each 
separate number, as they constitute part of the pattern. 

On line E dot I space, 1, 2 J, l£, 3^ and 2\ ; on line F dot I, I, l£, 2, 2, 24 and 
2£. Having now fixed all the points for the back and side pieces, place the 
square on the dots of lines D and E, and draw straight lines; proceed in the same 
manner between lines E and F, excepting that the lines must cross each other 
(see diagram). 

For the front, dot on line C from B 4 spaces ; on line D, from C, 8 spaces ; 
draw a liue and on it dot I space going np, and \h going down. 

On line C, from D, dot 3 J spaces; place the square on this dot, and the one 
at I J on the short line, at the arm hole, and draw oblique line for the height of 
bosom, on which dot 3 and 3 for the darts. 

On line C, from E, dot 3 spaces ; draw a line and dot on it l£, 2£, for the 
width of the first dart, 1 for the space between, and 2 for the second dart. 

On liue C, going from line F, dot I space. 

On line F, from C, dot 2, 1J, I J and 2. 

All the dotting being completed, proceed to draft the pattern according to 
the diagram, following it attentively, so as to give each liue its necessary finish 
and shape. 

To trace the round of the side body, cut out the back from the rest of the 

pattern, place it on the side body, and trace along the hollow part of the back 

down to the waist (line E). The front shoulder is traced by placing the top of 

the back in conjunction with the neck of the front on line B, place the lin< i which 

formed the width of the back also on line B, trace along the shoulder, and it 

will give the slope and length required. 

This Basque can also be cut with a Freuch back, by drawing a line from the 

back, on line E, dotted at I space from line A (see diagram), up through the middle 

of the shoulder, and another from the side body on line E up to join the one first 

drawn; the space between the back and the tailor's side body must not be cut 

out as in the first instance, as it is part of the French back. Usual length, 25 

inches. 




CTJIRASSE BASQUE. 

This Princess Cuirasse Basque is drafted the same as plate 2, with the ex- 
ception of lines D 7 E and F, on which more spaces are dotted than in the preceding; 
it has one side piece more, and fits beautifully around the body. 

Dot carefully according to diagram. Usual length, 25 inches. 




(J t 



HALF SACK, OR ENGLISH JACKET. 

This plate is a Half Sack, very graceful, and is drafted the same as plate 2. 
Dot according to diagram. 

If you wish to cut an English Jacket, lengthen the waist and make a plait 
each side of the back, as the red line indicates ; with pockets or flaps on the 
sides, according to fancy. 

The measures for this garment must be taken over the waist it is to be worn 
with. Usual length. 30 inches. 



PLATE 5. 
B 




SACK. 

Draw lines A and B. 

On line B dot one half of the total breast measure, dot 3 spaces of the 
breast scale, and draw line C. 

On line A, from B, dot 8, 4 ami 9 of the shoulder scale, and draw their 
respective lines. Place the length of the sack given, on line A, and draw line F. 
On the line between B and D, dot 7 spaces; draw short line, dot 2\ on it, and 
draw the shoulder as on plate 2. 

On line D dot 7 spaces, and dot £. 



On line E dot 5, and l£. 

On line F dot as many spaces as are marked on the diagram. Draw the back 
aud cross lines. 

On line C, from B, dot 4 spaces. 

On line D dot 8 spaces, and I up, as usual. 

On line C, from F, going down, dot f space 5 and outside of line C, on line F, 
dot IJ ; draw a line up to the neck ; this I J is added to have the sack close straight 
in front. 

The Double-Breasted Sack is made by adding 2\ spaces more on the front, 
all the way down. Usual length, 30 inches. 



►♦^♦»< 



PLATE 6. 




PLAIN WAIST. 

For a plain waist, dot according to diagram. The width of the back is 
marked at 7 spaces, but for a narrower back dot 6 J spaces, the same as tight- 
fitting basque. 



PLATE 7. 




AMAZONE. 

The Ainazone, or Riding Habit, is drafted precisely as plate 6. 
On the front from the waist-line down, dot 7 spaces for the length of the 
point ; dot 4 spaces for the width of the dart ; there being only one in this gar- 



ment, it should be made large. 



As the Amazone is generally worn in the morning, the fronts should be 
padded, to make it more comfortable and give it a fuller appearance. 
Usual length, 25 inches. 



PLATE 8. 




CIRCULAR CLOAKS AND CAPES. 



To trace the circular, draw Hues A and B, dot 8 spaces on Hue B, draw a short 
Hue, and dot \\ on it. 

Dot 8 spaces on line A, draw Hue, aud dot 3| on it, draw short line, and dot I 
space. On line A, dot 2 spaces, draw line, aud on it dot 8 spaces ; place the 
square on the dot just made, and on the dot at I space on short line, draw a Hue ; 
dot 2\ spaces for the V ou the shoulder ; draw a line from the last dot made, and 
the one at I \ from Hue B ; on the middle of this line, dot f for the neck. 

To round the bottom of the cloak, turn the pattern so as to have line B in 
front of you, with line A to the left. Hold the eud of the tape, and a piece of 
chalk or pencil in the right hand, and with the left place the measure at the full 
length of the cloak, ou the white dot, junction of lines A and B; sweep across 
from line A to B, with the right hand, aud it will give the round required. The 
front (line B) must now be made 3 spaces shorter on the bottom than the back 
(line A) ; even it off to correspond with the round first drawn. For a very long 
cloak, dot on the second line, on line A, from B, \ space, and 8 ; draw according 
to the red line ; this is to avoid too much fullness around the bottom. All styles 
of round cloaks, or capes, can be cut by this. 




SLEEVE. 

Draw lines A and B. 

On line B dot 5 spaces ; on line A dot 4 spaces, draw a line, and on it dot 8 
spaces (for a tight sleeve, dot only 7) ; draw line C. 

On line A dot 8 spaces, and draw line D for the elbow. 

Draw an oblique line from junction of lines A and D, dot 10 spaces on it, and 
draw line E. 

On line C, from E, dot I J, and from the dot just made, I, out from line C ; on 
line D, dot I space for the curve. 

The width of the bottom is regulated by the size of the cuffs worn, and is to 
be made wider or narrower on the oblique line, never on the forearm. 



POLONAISE. 

To cut a Polonaise, draft the pattern as if for a Basque, plate 2. 

Place the front of the pattern on the goods to be cut, trace all around it, and 
at the same time mark the length of the garment. 

From line E, going down, on the hip, dot 3 J spaces; place the square, or a 
yard stick on the dot just made, and on the bottom of the pattern, at I space from 
the side edge of the paper, draw a line to the bottom of the polonaise. 

The same must be done to the side piece, on the under arm seam, dot 3£, 
place the square as before, but take out only \ a space, instead of I. 

♦♦♦ 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

My system being founded on the Shoulder and Breast measures, they should 
be taken attentively, and with great care. The length of waist is also very nec- 
essary. With these three measures well taken no alterations will be required. 

Take the length of waist for every garment, from the neck-bone down to the 
waist, and thence to the length required, according to fashion or the customer's 
taste. In all cases, the pattern must be drafted at the length given with each 
plate, as that regulates the width of the bottom; for instance, if the length is 
marked at 25 inches, draft at that figure, and if the garment is to be longer than 
that, add whatever more is required ; if it is to be shorter, cut off from the bot- 
tom of the pattern. Trace the pattern on the goods with French chalk, and sew 
in the marks. 

Leave no seams in the arm-hole, but cut in the chalk mark. 

Leave a large outlet in the underarm seam, and also in front for the buttons 
and button holes. 

In baisting the seams, the goods must be kept fair, — that is, not have one side 
fuller than the other, except on the shoulder seam, where a little fullness must 
be put in the back. 

Have the back uppermost in baisting the back and tailor's side piece to- 
gether. 

In putting in the sleeve, place the elbow seam in the red mark on the back, 
and sew on the sleeve side. 



CORRECTIONS. 

If the garment is too loose around the neck, take it out in the shoulder 
seam. 

If too loose under the arms, take it out in the under-arm seam, and cut a 
little out of the arm-hole. 




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